In 1979, Terry Allen wrote, “As close as I’ll ever get to heaven is making speed up Ol’ 87.” I’ve been traveling up Highway 87 since my family bought property in Mason County in the early 1990s. Despite making this trip often, I’ve never taken the time to explore Fredericksburg and Mason. My years at the Institute of Texan Cultures and frequent inquiries about the Texas Hill Country inspired me to be a tourist and experience what attracts people from around the world to Fredericksburg and Mason.
Founded in 1846 by German immigrants from New Braunfels, Fredericksburg grew along the Pedernales River. The town retains a quaint feel, with many destinations along a single Main Street. Fredericksburg has become a popular getaway, with shuttle services to attractions, wineries, accommodations, and other venues. Fredericksburg and the Texas Hill Country have built a solid reputation in the growing Texas wine industry, but Fredericksburg is more than just a stop on the Texas wine trail.
Fredericksburg Outskirts: Das Peach Haus
Weisser’s Das Peach Haus welcomes travelers on the edge of town. Originally, Das Peach Haus served as a warehouse for Lone Star Beer in 1913, located along the nearby railroad tracks until the family relocated the building to their property in 1976. Currently, the main building features a general store stocked with shelves of fruit preserves, jams, sauces, and other artisanal products showcasing the famous Hill Country peaches.
The old farmstead has some welcoming features. A turtle pond beneath a canopy of Ponderosa Pine trees makes a great spot to sit and sample some of Fisher & Weisser’s vintage, with a variety of fruit-based wines or more traditional options such as merlot or Riesling infused with Hill Country peach flavors. For any overnighters, the Fisher & Weisser property has a scattering of Airbnb accommodations as well as an Airstream trailer village.
Main Street Fredericksburg: National Museum of the Pacific War
Venturing further into town, the National Museum of the Pacific War is the first sight greeting drivers turning onto Main Street. Fredericksburg was the birthplace of Admiral Chester Nimitz, the commander-in-chief of the Pacific Fleet during World War II. The museum chronicles the campaign from Pearl Harbor to Iwo Jima, Midway, and the Philippines and has displays of some lesser-known but equally significant battles, such as Leyte, Nanking, and the Java Sea.
Exhibits also shed light on the war effort at home, including displays on native Texan Oveta Culp Hobby and the Women’s Army Auxiliary Corps, victory gardens, rationing, and other efforts that contributed to victory in the Pacific. With closing time looming, I had to pass the outdoor exhibits and head toward my next stop.
Dinner, music and stories at the Hill Top Cafe
Years ago, my mom and I made the mistake of assuming Hill Top Café, a few minutes outside Fredericksburg, was just another roadside diner. After glancing at the menu, we knew we made a mistake. The restaurant specializes in seafood, with Cajun, Creole, French, and Greek dishes on the menu. It was a far cry from the grab-and-go sandwiches we had expected.
My evening meal was fantastic. I began with fried oysters accompanied by spicy remoulade, followed by an entrée of red beans and rice topped with shrimp and sausage. I concluded with a dessert of bananas Foster, finished with coconut-vanilla ice cream.
The best part of Hill Top was the unexpected conversation with the owner, Johnny Nicholas, who had run the diner with his wife for nearly 45 years. Johnny greeted every guest like an old friend, making introductions and creating a warm, welcoming atmosphere.
I didn’t know that Johnny was a Grammy Award-winning musician and part of the 1978 – 1980 lineup of Asleep at the Wheel, a Texas swing and blues band. Johnny played on two albums in that span, picked up the occasional studio session, and sat in on some live performances with the group.
Johnny shared stories about Texas music’s evolution, pointing back toward Fredericksburg and referring to its German and Czech polka bands. He explained how their styles began to merge with Mexican sounds, giving birth to Conjunto and Texas Swing. He reminisced about his friends—Doug Sahm, Augie Meyers, Flaco Jimenez, and Max Baca—and how some of these legends of Texas music still visit Hill Top to play an occasional show. I thanked Johnny for the great conversation, meal, and music and called it a night, continuing to Mason.