In 1979, Terry Allen wrote, “As close as I’ll ever get to heaven is making speed up Ol’ 87.” I’ve been traveling up Highway 87 since my family bought property in Mason County in the early 1990s. Despite making this trip often, I’ve never taken the time to explore Fredericksburg and Mason. My years at the Institute of Texan Cultures and frequent inquiries about the Texas Hill Country inspired me to be a tourist and experience what attracts people from around the world to Fredericksburg and Mason.
Founded in 1846 by German immigrants from New Braunfels, Fredericksburg grew along the Pedernales River. The town retains a quaint feel, with many destinations along a single Main Street. Fredericksburg has become a popular getaway, with shuttle services to attractions, wineries, accommodations, and other venues. Fredericksburg and the Texas Hill Country have built a solid reputation in the growing Texas wine industry, but Fredericksburg is more than just a stop on the Texas wine trail.
The turtle pond, pine grove, and sampling of wines at Fisher & Weisser’s Das Peach Haus.
Fredericksburg Outskirts: Das Peach Haus
Fisher & Weisser’s Das Peach Haus welcomes travelers on the edge of town. Originally, Das Peach Haus served as a warehouse for Lone Star Beer in 1913, located along the nearby railroad tracks until the family relocated the building to their property in 1976. Currently, the main building features a general store stocked with shelves of fruit preserves, jams, sauces, and other artisanal products showcasing the famous Hill Country peaches.
The old farmstead has some welcoming features. A turtle pond beneath a canopy of Ponderosa Pine trees makes a great spot to sit and sample some of Fisher & Weisser’s vintage, with a variety of fruit-based wines or more traditional options such as merlot or Riesling infused with Hill Country peach flavors. For any overnighters, the Fisher & Weisser property has a scattering of Airbnb accommodations as well as an Airstream trailer village.
Main Street Fredericksburg: National Museum of the Pacific War
A statue of Admiral Chester Nimitz. Nimitz was born in Fredericksburg, 1885.
Venturing further into town, the National Museum of the Pacific War is the first sight greeting drivers turning onto Main Street. Fredericksburg was the birthplace of Admiral Chester Nimitz, the commander-in-chief of the Pacific Fleet during World War II. The museum chronicles the campaign from Pearl Harbor to Iwo Jima, Midway, and the Philippines and has displays of some lesser-known but equally significant battles, such as Leyte, Nanking, and the Java Sea.
Exhibits also shed light on the war effort at home, including displays on native Texan Oveta Culp Hobby and the Women’s Army Auxiliary Corps, victory gardens, rationing, and other efforts that contributed to victory in the Pacific. With closing time looming, I had to pass the outdoor exhibits and head toward my next stop.
Dinner, music and stories at the Hill Top Cafe
Years ago, my mom and I made the mistake of assuming Hill Top Café, a few minutes outside Fredericksburg, was just another roadside diner. After glancing at the menu, we knew we made a mistake. The restaurant specializes in seafood, with Cajun, Creole, French, and Greek dishes on the menu. It was a far cry from the grab-and-go sandwiches we had expected.
Hill Top Cafe, 11 miles outside of Fredericksburg, specializes in seafood, with Cajun, Creole, French and Greek flavors.
My evening meal was fantastic. I began with fried oysters accompanied by spicy remoulade, followed by an entrée of red beans and rice topped with shrimp and sausage. I concluded with a dessert of bananas Foster, finished with coconut-vanilla ice cream.
The best part of Hill Top was the unexpected conversation with the owner, Johnny Nicholas, who had run the diner with his wife for nearly 45 years. Johnny greeted every guest like an old friend, making introductions and creating a warm, welcoming atmosphere.
I didn’t know that Johnny was a Grammy Award-winning musician and part of the 1978 – 1980 lineup of Asleep at the Wheel, a Texas swing and blues band. Johnny played on two albums in that span, picked up the occasional studio session, and sat in on some live performances with the group.
Johnny Nicholas at the Hill Top Cafe sound-checking his keyboard before playing a few songs for the evening’s entertainment.
Johnny shared stories about Texas music’s evolution, pointing back toward Fredericksburg and referring to its German and Czech polka bands. He explained how their styles began to merge with Mexican sounds, giving birth to Conjunto and Texas Swing. He reminisced about his friends—Doug Sahm, Augie Meyers, Flaco Jimenez, and Max Baca—and how some of these legends of Texas music still visit Hill Top to play an occasional show. I thanked Johnny for the great conversation, meal, and music and called it a night, continuing to Mason.
Mason: Around the Town Square
The Mason County Courthouse was recently rededicated after it was destroyed by arson in 2021.
I spent the morning exploring the historic town square. The town grew around old Fort Mason, established in 1851. The iconic county courthouse was built between 1909 and 1910. An arsonist destroyed the courthouse in 2021, but restoration work is complete. The dome, columns, and clock are back, and the grounds once again welcome community events and gatherings.
After reviewing the historical markers, I wandered into the first open building I found—Nell’s, an antique shop filled with vintage furnishings, clothing, décor, and other trinkets. One display in a glass case caught my eye. Among the items were military medals and emblems, including a Pallas Athena pin from the Women’s Army Auxiliary Corps (WAAC), which I had just learned about at the museum in Fredericksburg. I also saw what looked like mid-century high school organization and team pins and a few Scouting emblems, which, as an Eagle Scout, I recognized from my youth.
Mason County Blue Topaz is the Texas state stone. The largest ever discovered weighs roughly three pounds and is about the size of a softball.
Next, I headed to the Mason Square Museum, where Michael Murphy greeted me at the front desk. When I mentioned I was working on a story for the ITC, he said an Institute of Texan Cultures employee had helped develop some of the exhibit content on display. I shared how our former director, John Davis, had retired in Mason. Learning he still pursued his passion for telling Texas stories was heartening.
The exhibits detailed Mason County’s geology and mineral wealth, the settlement by German immigrants, and interactions with American Indian tribes in the region. One exhibit highlighted the Meusebach-Comanche Treaty of 1847, which ended the threat of violence and allowed German settlers to move into the area. Other details in the displays referenced life at Fort Mason, a story recounted among the remnants of the fort, which overlooks the town from its vantage point on a hill.
The officer’s quarters at historic Fort Mason is all that remains of the frontier fort. It overlooks the town square from a hilltop vantage.
Although the fort no longer stands, local lore says its stone was used to build parts of the town square. The one preserved building, an officer’s quarters, offers a glimpse of life on the frontier. The fort served as a military post for the scouts and protectors of the frontier and earned a reputation as a proving ground for military leaders. Notably, Ft. Mason was General Robert E. Lee’s last assignment before he joined the Confederate Army.
A staff member at Cooper’s Barbecue goes over what’s on the smoker this afternoon. Cooper’s has earned a reputation as one of the best barbecue spots in the state.
Refueling for the drive home
My last stop before heading home was Cooper’s Barbecue. Established in 1953, Cooper’s is famous for its smoky, tender brisket, which earned it a spot in Texas Monthly’s top BBQ list. The brisket was a bit fatty for my taste, but the sausage was spot-on— coarse-ground beef and pork, seasoned and smoked just right.
Fueled by that fantastic lunch, I was ready to head home. I returned with new experiences and connections to the Texas Hill Country, its rich history, and the people who call it home today. Instead of merely passing through, exploring small towns and roadside attractions can transform routine travel into unforgettable experiences. This Spring Break road trip created new friendships, knowledge, and stories, and there is still plenty more Texas to discover.